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Installation Guide: Vacuum Jig

Vacuum Jig

Included with your vacuum jig kit you will find the following items (plunge router not included):

  • Jig including ellipse and cavity plates for original LokBox

  • 10.5-inch longboard plates

  • Centering target (locator)

  • Dummy fins

  • Angle thickness guide

  • Instruction manual

  • New MicroBox plates available for additional cost

Step #1

Install air line with appropriate female disconnect onto the jigs male fitting and position the jig so it is fairly centered over the rear fin area.

Step #2

Place the plastic centering “site” into the opening on the jig and position it so the rear fin mark is on the cross-hair (+) with the word LOKBOX next to it and centered using the center mark (see Illustration A). Note – on tri fins always rout the rear fin box first. Position the front of the jig so that the center mark is centered on the stringer. Turn both valves to the on position (blue levers facing forward). If the jig does not attach itself immediately, apply pressure to the face of the jig which will help it conform to the bottom of the board.

Step #3

Double check to be sure that the jig is firmly attached, then remove the centering “site” and insert the ellipse template onto the three pins on the jig.

Step #4

Set the router on the jig approximately in the center of the hole and zero the router by bringing the bit down until it contacts the surface of the board, then set the cut depth to 3/16-inch (4.7 mm) cut. Some boards with deeper concaves may require a slightly deeper cut. An extra 1/32-inch (0.7 mm) should do the job, you will know when you dry-fit the LOKBOX.
**Please note:  When installing the new MicroBox, do not cut the hole any deeper than 3/16-inch!

Step #5

You are now ready to rout out the hole. Plunge the router into the board at the rear of the hole, drilling the stringer out, then raise the router, move to the front of the hole and plunge the router down again, locking it in the down position, then pull the router straight back removing the stringer completely. From here, you can now push the router around in a clock-wise circle until all material is removed. Raise the router bit up, lock the router in the up position, and remove the router.

Step #6

Remove the eclipse template from the jig and install the cavity template. Remember that the screw on the LOKBOX always faces to the left on the rear box and towards the stringer on the front box so be sure to set up the cavity template accordingly. Set the router on top of the cavity template and move it to the front of the hole.

Step #7

Hold the locking lever in the unlocked position and use a drilling motion (pushing straight down on the router), to remove the stringer. Moving the router back about ¼-inch (6.0 mm) on each plunge makes it easy and fast to remove the entire stringer. Once the entire stringer is removed, go around with the router one more time to be sure that all the material has been completely removed. IMPORTANT – Be sure to always dry-fit the LOKBOX by using a box with an installation fin in it before removing the jig. The ideal depth is where the box fits flush or just slightly below the surface of the board. Remove router and jig from the board.

Step #8

Place the jig over the side fin and position centering “site” into jig. You will notice that the centering “site” has three parallel lines just in front and behind the handle of the centering “site”. These are for off-setting the LOKBOX to its proper position. Line up the jig using the cross-hair (+) with the word LOKBOX next to it and the inside mark on both the front and back of the centering “site” (see Illustration A). Turn only the inside lever to the on position (facing forward) and leave the outer lever in the off position (to the side). Double check to be sure that the jig is attached before routing.





Step #9

Set the router on the jig and set the depth to 3/16-inch (4.7 mm) cut. Remember you might have to increase cut depth just a fraction for deeper concaves. Starting slightly back from the front of the hole, plunge the router all the way in and go around the template in a clockwise circle until all material is removed. Switch to the cavity template and remove all material. Remember to dry-fit the box to insure proper rout depth before removing the jig. NOTE – If you increase the rout depth slightly the LOKBOX becomes adjustable about two to four degrees, side to side, but it will then require a “cheater coat” of laminating resin to fill up low spots created by adjusting the box. Remove router and jig. 
**Please note:  When installing the new MicroBox, do not cut the hole any deeper than 3/16-inch!

Step #10

Position the jig over the other side fin and repeat steps 8 and 9, but be sure to reverse the cavity template so the screw will be on the stringer side of the box. Remove all material. Remove router and jig from the board. You are now ready to install the boxes.

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